Top ten things about Japan so far...
1) Bowing
2) Heated toilet seats
3) Beautiful design
4) Helpfulness
5) Cherry blossom
6) Outrageous styles (including dog outfits)
7) Robot shower (and robot dog)
8) Coin operated food ordering
9) Energetic street night life
10) Dumplings
The only bad thing I can think of to report is that is blooming chilly, other than that our first impressions of Japan have blown us away. Rob has just returned from a visit to the eight jet robot shower and thinks he has died and gone to heaven.
Anyway, we have had such a good first day, which is especially amazing since we had pretty much no sleep on Tuesday night...
After kicking about with Jack, and then in wifi cafes making Japan plans, on Tuesday eve we had a final Vietnamese dinner and headed off to the airport. The last supper didn't quite go to plan as we were overly cocky and our bravery got us chewy buffalo and pigeon claws. But it was fun(ny) nonetheless and almost filled us up. As it was over quite quickly we pushed our luck at our ex-guest house and turned up early for our taxi in case there was a free room in which we could shower. There was and we had a relaxing hour of getting clean and watching telly which was very welcome after the stickiness that seemed to have descended upon Hanoi in the last week. It's much better to at least start an overnight journey fresh and clean.
Things continued on this note as our taxi even arrived on time and managed to get us to the airport without killing us or anyone else on the road (there were some close shaves). I can't believe I got out of Vietnam without getting hit by a moto (I can say that now we're safely out). To be fair our road crossing skills were approaching local standards after nearly two weeks negotiating the city (although I never succeeded in losing the fear!!)
At the airport we checked in and then killed some time spending our last $5 dollars worth of Dong (choosing between the three western snacks available in Vietnam; Pringles (or fake equivalents), Ritz biscuits and Oreos. Then we got sleepy while waiting to board our midnight flight.
We were really glad to sleep once it took off and welcomed the two hours we got before we were awoken to be fed fried rice. Then we had a bit more shaky sleep as the plane rattled it's way into Osaka, I can't say it was the smoothest four and a half hours in the air I've ever spent. The landing was quite a spectacle too as the plane's wheels much have touched the sea descending to the runway on the reclaimed island of Kensai airport.
But all was forgiven when we landed as Japan's charm started working on us immediately. We were the last people off the plane and in the 10 mins it took for us to clear customs everyone had already got their bags and buzzed off and ours were neatly placed waiting for us. Out of the airport we effortlessly collected our rail passes and then a kind man helped us to the right train platform and even gave us his email address in case we need any travel advice during our stay. On the train we felt as though we could be in London commuting into the city except that everyone was Japanese and the ticket inspector announced his arrival into the carriage with a smile and a bow! Off the train we maneuvered through rush hour Osaka onto the subway to find our hostel.
Unfortunately the hostel a bit hard to find (it's not on the main road we thought it was and it's sign is about 2cm squared in size). We were getting tired by this point as we'd had our bags on our backs for a while. But then we remembered how nice the other people had been so far and so asked for help. Noone really spoke English but they smiled and pointed and then one person produced an i-phone and brought up google maps and we were sorted.
Inside the hostel it was beautifully designed; old Japanese influences, retro styles and modern facilities. I love the art work and simple elegant layout, and most of all the snuggly clean futon and the heated toilet seat.
We were able to check into our room even though it was only 9.30 am which meant we got a couple of hours sleep in before heading out to face the world. By the time we did it was lunch time and we hadn't eaten anything except the few remaining Ritz biscuits since the rice on the plane. The gorgeously sweet girl at the hostel had recommended a spot for lunch near the subway station so we gladly headed there en route.
There was no English on the menu and so we cleverly pointed to what we thought was the cheapest lunch option consisting of small rice, side dish and small soup. Instead those prices were just for the side dishes which we got as well as the pricier noodle dishes we'd seen on the menu. It was worth it though, it was only about £12 for it all in the end and the extra dishes were yummy especially the mixed dumplings which I loved. I really enjoyed lunch and was reassured by how much I enjoyed it as I wasn't sure how I'd find the food here. Plus, it was made even better by the fact that the guys who cooked our lunch were so cool. They were tall and handsome and had their long hair tied up and scarfs round their heads (they were keeping their Samurai swords out back).
Lunch restored some warmth and energy and gave us confidence to jump back on the subway over to Osaka-jo; Osaka Castle. I admit I didn't get my head around the history that much but what I do know is that in it's day it was very important but then in the 1800's during the summer war of Osaka it got burned down. Since then it seems to have been rebuilt and re-destroyed a number of times - at one point it was struck by lightening. But even it's modern incarnation is good looking, especially thanks to the cherry blossom on the trees in the surrounding grounds.
We had a good explore of the castle. We went right up to the 8th floor to take in the views and then to all the other floors to vaguely take in the history. And then we wandered around the surrounding area for a good while including a random temple.
We came to Japan in April because of the cherry blossom and have already been rewarded with a show.
There was lots about today and as gorgeous as hoped. What's nice is that the Japanese seem to be equally as awe struck. Everyone was posing for a blossom filled photo and under all the trees groups were laying out ground sheets to picnic.
There was a lovely atmosphere with everyone out and about welcoming in the Spring and snacking on interesting looking local delicacies, including squid balls, that street food vendors were cooking up nearby (more later).
A few hours later we found our way back to the subway and headed into the centre of the city to get a feel for the real living hub. Despite being Japan's second biggest city it is not the most famous or most tourist orientated. But we like it; it is bright and energetic.
We had a coffee and a wander and even ventured into some shops to look at what is on offer and how much it costs (the prices probably equal to London, but are maybe a little steeper). Fashion is a big thing here though, everyone is dressed so individually and so deliberately. You can't help but take in the choice of outfits. Even the yappy little pet dogs are well dressed.
Then as evening approached we got some street food of our own. The Osaka delicacy seems to be some kind of a batter ball cooked with squid in the middle which is then covered in sticky brown sauce and it was pretty good. I'm a big fan of squid and Rob loved the sauce. Then we tried a beef kebab, which again involved a similar sauce so Rob was happy.
We were pretty pleased with our street food experience but were now cold and realising that we needed to figure out how to find vegetables to eat. We walked the length of the strip but mostly restaurants were offering either raman noodles or sushi. But then near the subway we ventured into a place that appeared to sell salad as well as noodles. Everyone was sitting around a circular bar and we were about to sit down when the lady in the middle pointed to a machine in the corner which we had to use to pay for our food. It was a cross between a ticket machine and a vending machine.
You choose between pictures of food, put in your money and are presented with a ticket to give to the lady who in exchange gave us some tea. I am proud to say we successfully ordered two salads and some rice and were given miso soup too. The rice and salads were sides that are meant to go with the main meals but no-one seemed to be offended that we just had those and we felt very pleased with ourselves.
On that note we caught a subway back just as the rain started. The hostel is as lovely as we remembered and we sat downstairs for a bit to use the internet and just because it is nice. They even have a Robot dog (although sadly it's battery was flat).
Then we got back upstairs to the snuggly futons, put some music on, revisited the robot shower and did a little bit of reading about Nara where we're off to tomorrow on the train as a little day trip. I hope tomorrow is as good as today We love japan.
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