A perfect day

Yesterday was an absolutely perfect day.  I will always remember it.

We awoke (on our 10 year anniversary) to the sound of bouncy thuds as the family of kangeroos gave us a second visit on their way back after a night on camp.  We couldn't believe we got to see them not once but twice.

We had breakfast back in the restaurant and I had the special which was poached salmon, herby scrambled eggs and home grown asparagus while rob had poached eggs, bacon, spinach, mushrooms and tomato (I have to include details of the food as its an important event in each day, although definitely not the most important of this day.)  We then got a lift into town for our whale watching trip.

I have never been whale watching and didn't really know what to expect on the boat heading out away from the coast.  It was about half an hour before the captain spoke to us and told us to start looking out for signs of them; splashes and high squirts of water.  Before long we'd caught sight of a mother and her calf and headed in their direction.  The boat is allowed to go in their direction but not follow them if they start moving.  We were lucky enough to get a few hundred metres away before they did start to move on and we'd had lots of tantilising glimses of hump back fins.





The next couple of hours flew by and we saw 12 whales in total!!  And not just their fins; at one point one of the calves jumped high out of the water and came crashing back in, one of the mothers turned up right in front of the boat and scared the driver to bits and another whale spent about 10 minutes on its side slapping the water.  The experience was phenonenal and I loved how it reduced everyone on the boat to gasping awe struck children.

After our overwhelming morning our plan for the afternoon was to borrow a canoe from the camp and take the packed lunch we had been provided with down the creek for a picnic.  A calm non eventful afternoon I had thought, little did I know....... It was lovely and warm and the creek was beautiful and completely peaceful with lots of birds about but little else.  We journeyed down for about 40 minutes before mooring up on a little beach and setting up for lunch.

It was here that romantic old Rob proposed.  It was beautiful and so much fun and the sunny muddy creek was the perfect setting.  We drank Victoria Bitter out of tin mugs to toast to us and all the fun that is yet to come.  Rob proposed with a fancy looking (but not too riskily expensive) travel/holding ring (although he shouldn't have told me as I was convinced) to last until we're not moving about.  So we still get to choose a ring in Japan or in London when we get back. I am a very lucky girl, and well done Rob.

Back at the camp we upgraded our celebratory toast to a bottle of champagne (or the south australian version anyway) and were treated so sweetly by the camp staff and another couple who we met and chatted to.  We had another amazing dinner in the Gunyah restaurant before heading, exhausted, to bed.

Good evening skippy

On Saturday we left Jo's unit for the most gorgeous place you could ever stay - Paperbark Camp.  we got an early train to try and get up here as soon as pos and after 3hrs arrived in Bomaderry.

The king of the camp collected us from the station, although his son now runs the camp, and drove us to the camp via a little guided tour of Jervis bay.  He also told us about the history of the camp and the places that inspired him to make it.

On arrival we were shown to "Kookaburra" our deluxe tent.  It had a king size bad, decking with lounge chairs and an outdoor bathroom out the back with a claw foot bath and open shower - wow.

Despite how soft and airy and cosy and tempting the tent was we dumped our bags and headed straight out to explore.  We borrowed bikes and cycled back to the bay and along the yellow brick coastal bike path from one lovely beach to the next until we could take it no longer and pulled up for a swim.  We spent a lovely few hours sun bathing and swimming, our first real beachy holiday moment.

Then back into the little town for a snack before cycling back to the camp to get into that huge bath and stare at the view from it.  My daydreaming was disrupted however by an insistent call from Rob so I scuttled out to come face to face with a family of roos!!!!!!! They were right next to our tent... We were ~just seconds away from wild kangeroos!

There were about six of them, all different shapes and sizes and then just when we thought it was over a huge big grey back appeared that would have been about 7 feet tall at full height.  It was spectacular.  

After that excitement we finished getting ready, had a pre dinner drink at our tent and then headed over to the Gunyah restaurant which is the most revered in the area alongside the new one that Rick Stein has recently opened!

I think the meal was the best I have ever had and the setting is amazing as the restaurant is raised high amongst the trees.  We had Oysters to start, freshly caught and shucked.  Then we had loin of Kangeroo for our main (poor old skippy) and shared cheese for dessert.  Yum yum yum yum yum.

What a brilliant day.

Chish and fips

Today we made it to the beach!  Hurray.  We had to pop into town and then got the bus out to Bondi Beach to do the coastal walk from Bondi to Coogee.  Bondi was really beautiful plus we were really lucky that we happened to be here during the "sculptures by the sea" festival and so the coast was littered with art, lots of which was great. 

Rob's favourite was the one attached here with the straw in the sea.  He had an image of the BFG bending down and sipping up the ocean (there's no accounting for taste).  There were some amazing ones right on the cliff which framed the sea beautifully.

Of course the most gorgeous sights were the sea views and we passed four beaches along the way, we particularly liked Bronte.

Eventually after a good exercising walk we reached Coogee beach.  We had a little paddle then went looking for a reward beer (and luckily found three each!).

Finally finished off the day with fish and chips on the beach. (But don't tell anyone I had fish and chips yesterday too!)  Great day.

Soggy Syd

Thursday morning we'd arranged to speak to my dad and Alison so we popped out of bed bright and early to be ready for that.  A lovely start to the day and meant we were up in good time to get lots of bookings made.  Then with that all sorted and home made lunch in our bellies we headed out.

Plan for the afternoon was to head to Manly so we got the bus down to circular quay to get the ferry.  We felt like regular boaties after our river trip yesterday.  Was good though because the ferry went the opposite way, to North Sydney, and so we got different sights such as Pinchgut Island.  The lovely history to this is that it where where high security prisoners used to be taken, chained and fed only on bread and water until their stomachs shrivelled.

Arriving in Manly we headed straight down the high street to the beach
which was very busy considering it was a Thursday afternoon.  I'd been sad there wouldn't be time to swim however most people were on the beach rather than in the water as it didn't look that warm and a bit of a breeze was starting up.

Sure enough by the time we came back out from shopping for sun hats the sun had gone entirely and been replaced by ominous skies.  As someone who wasn't trying to sunbathe the weather was quite exciting.  We grabbed coffee and went back to the ferry and by the time it took off he heavens opened and the storm began.

So in contrast to our sunny river trip yesterday, this ferry ride rumbled with thunder, was pounded with rain and as we approached the opera house it was backdropped by dramatic fork lightening!

This was all very exciting from the comfort of the ferry but we then got soaked running into the city to meet Jo at Australia Square. The plan was to have a drink in the bar there to look at the views however it was closed to the public because they were doing a magazine photo shoot so we got the train straight to Newtown.

We had a brilliant eve out in Newtown; the studenty big brother to Glebe.  We did a bit of a pub crawl, drank lots of yummy beers and had pub dinner (to which Jo treated us despite us putting up a good fight).  I rolled out of the taxi after the short ride home straight into bed and was snoozing in minutes.

Indiana Ame and the Mountains of Blue

This was a BIG coach tour jobbie.  We managed to get it half price so that was a bonus because the trip was beautiful but the tour was like an OAP tour to the Blackpool or something.

The mountains were amazing and the forests deep and unexplored.  This isn't the kind of sight that I automatically associate with Australia.  It was interesting to see.  It is a little money making in the mountains though where you get delivered to "Scenic World".  A crap name for a sight that allows you to get down to a wooden board walk on the forest floor.  The only catch: you have no choice but to pay $19 each to go down by mountain train and then up by cable car.  So we paid our money and got on the train.  It was slightly unerving to read this is the steepst railway in the WORLD and goes to about 45 degrees in places...  What made it hilarious was as the train started to descend down they played the Indiana Jones theme music.  CHEEEEESE!!!!

The walk down the bottom was fun and a good temperature because of the forest.  Then it was up via the cable car.  I f-in hate cable cars.  I don't trust the strength of the cables despite knowing they must be safe.  It was good to be back on the granny bus.  A brief stop for tea and scone and a whistle stop tour of Sydney's Olympic village from 2000.  Ame was particularly interested in this because of her job.  I reckon London can do better!  C'mon London!





  

Finally, we took the public ferry back to circular quay from the Olympic village.  This was probably the best thing all day.  It was fast and the weather was awesome.  Approaching Sydney via water is probably the best way to see it.  We got back to Jo's and I cooked chilli and we all shared that wine we bought at Hunter.  Thursday is job day.  We've got to book Byron Bay and a fee trips.  Can't believe it's only been a week.  It feels like years ago since I was in UK.  So much still to do and see....

Wine Hunter

Tuesday we went on a small 20 person trip to Hunter Valley wine district.  It was a very early start at 06:30 to get on the bus for 07:00 (well you wouldn't want to waste any wine time now would ya?)  We had a really fun mixed group of young and old.  Two nice American sisters from North Carolina kept us amused whilst another couple from Angel of all places provided more Brit power to the tour.

The first 2 vineyards were family run joints where you buy "from the cellar door".  Our tour guide (possibily Rolf Harris' younger brother...) made his feelings clear about we should buy from these places and not the main commercial vineyards.  (He also told me what Pome stands for and why Aussies call us that.  Pome is an acroymn and stands for Prisoner Of Mainland England and the first dumping of criminals to the Oz would have this written on their shirt.  Interesting me thinks).  The first place was very fast pace, friendly and the woman who was doing our tastings was pretty funny.  In 20 mins we had tried 10 wines, a port and a dessert wine!  All before 11am...  Next place we bought a Verdelho (passion fruity dry nice white).

Tempus Two was one of the commercial vineyards and it felt like some sort of west end bar.  Far too smug for my liking.  Then it was off for pie lunch and a spot of beer tasting.  All were gorgeous especially the dark one.

Last place was a great professional family run place and we purchased another white from there...  Finally a visit to a cheese shop and some choc shops.  On the way home, we thought we'd eat local to Jo's flat and went to Glebe Point Road and had a wicked Thai.  All in all, an enjoyable boozy fast pace day.

Sitting on the dock of the bay

We got to Sydney after a surprisingly easy overnight bus.  I thought it was gonna be hard to sleep and we were gonna be knackered but on advise from our mums, we popped 1/2 a travel sickness pill because they make you drowsy.  Actually got about 8 hours sleep (and no accommodation costs that night!).

We got a taxi to Jo's flat in Glebe and then got the guided tour around the building.  It's a really nice flat and we're so lucky because it's saved us on room, washing, breakfast, internet and some dinner costs!  It's cool to stay in an area where people live rather than inner city youth hostels.   Glebe is excellent and only 20mins bus ride into the centre of the city.  It's got a real Camden kind of vibe to it along with residential friendly safeness. 



So we chilled out for the whole morning and headed into Sydney's Circular Quay to do all the stereotypical sites.  I was a little bowled over about how excited I was to see the bridge and opera house.  It's one of those sites you've seen on the TV all your life and then suddenly you're straight in front of it.  We walked up along the dock until we were directly in front of the bridge, over looking the harbour and the Opera House.  We decided it was most appropriate to have a drink .  Right next to us was this swanky looking restaurant and we thought sod it, how often are we gonna be in the gorgeous sunlight in Sydney?  To add extra swank, we even upgraded to have lunch there!  (which wasn't as much as you think; we had 2 salads, garlic bread, a drink each - £25 altogether.  Not mad expensive considering the area).

Then we had a slow strut up close to the Opera House.  The white sail like structures are scally like a snake.  I didn't much expect that.  It's a lot more solid than I thought it would be.  I imagine soft lighter materials.  You can definitely tell it was built in the 70's.  It a bit gaudy but still quite amazingly big.  I was interested to learn a fact about the bridge too.  When it was built (around the 20's I think) the designer had the foresight to build it with 4 lanes each way despite their being hardly any cars in the country at that time...  So now in 2009 it still has the original design and copes well with the traffic...  Boring or interesting?  Answers on a postcard.

Then it was back to Jo's to cook her dinner to say thank you for having us.  Jo introduced us to an interesting phrase:  Flashpackers.  Not just backpackers, but people who do it a bit more flash.  Not just staying in hostels but not staying in expense hotels.  I quite like it.

We're going to Hunter Valley on Tuesday and then Blue Mountains on Wednesday.  Action packed days for the Flashpackers...

Bunjilaka

I feel we have really seen the rest of the city today and educated ourselves about the cultural history.

We walked beside the river and learnt about how the city grew up around it; along to Enterprize Park where the "scar trees" represent those that indigenous people use as a signpost to let other clans know they had entered their community.

We jumped on a tram from here up north to Queen Victoria Market which has been operating since 1878. It's huge. Unfortunately Sundays is clothes instead of food but their was still an excellent delicatessen section where we got ourselves some lunch time delicacies.

After lunch it was even hotter than before lunch but we still persevered with another long walk due east to the Melbourne Museum (we thought we should visit one museum while we were here), we went to the Melbourne museum for the Bunjilaka exhibition.

The name Bunjilaka is derived from Bunjil, the wedge-tailed eagle 'the creator' and aka, meaning land in the language of the Boon Wurrung and Woi Wurrung people, the traditional owners of Melbourne. The exhibition explored the history of the people, the impact that new settlers has had upon them and the remaining controversies. It was a really interesting introduction to the issue.


Before heading back we visited a modern aboriginal fine art gallery for comparison. Restrained from buying any; they didn't fit with our rucksack or budget.

We're now back at the hotel sneaking in a final shower and complementary tea before heading back into town for the last time to have some dinner and catch the overnight bus to Sydney.

Farewell Melbourne.

P-p-p-pick up a Penguin

So!  Yesterday the big Phillip Island trip.  We had a leisurely morning because we were getting picked up at 12:00 for our trip which was very nice.

We got on the bus at 12:00 and drove off first to a wildlife reserve.  We saw lots of stereotypical oz animals and it was brilliant.  We saw dingos, koalas, wallabies, kangaroos and taz devils!  We even got to feed some of them.  Mr Koala was a little grumpy cos apparently they sleep 19 hours a day.



And to be honest, I don't blame them in this heat and he was probably the most papped koala that side of Melbourne.  He looked like an Ewark.  I looked for wires and a puppet master but neither were there.  I suppose I found it a strange charming beast that felt like a Jim Henderson puppet.

Amy was particularly excited about the feeding of the wallabies.  She is 28 but in her mind, about 8 years old...  :-)

Then it was off to Churchill Island to see a still working, old methods farm.  We saw a little sheep get sheared which I've never seen before.  The shearer was particularly Australian and pretty bitter about the demise of the wool industry in Oz and pretty much told us he earns no money now because of the synthetics taking over.

We drove over to Phillip Island where we went to what felt like Summer Bay (re: Home and Away) and had a brief sit in the sand.  Next stop was the Nobbies which are some rocks near the Penguin Parade beach.  It was beautiful.  These purple flowers had just come out.

You can't take pictures at the penguin parade because as our guide said camera flashes blind the penguins then they stumble about aimlessly and die.  Talk about laying it on with a trowel!  So one of the main reasons to stop at the Nobbies was to look for penguins in the light so you can take a pic of them.  We found one in its burrow sleeping.  Pretty impressed.

So as the sunset, it was time for the main event.  Me and Ame had chose
to do the private penguin experience which involved having your own guide who broadcasted to a headset so he could whisper facts to you and you could sit on the beach.  At first I was thinking that we'd been ripped off as he took us to the same area as everyone else at first, however we got to sit at the front in the sand and when the first penguins waddled right by us we realised how lucky we were.  At first you think "I'm gonna miss all the penguins...  They are too far away" and then suddenly you're absolutely surround by the little buggers (and I mean little - they could only be about 20cm tall some of them).  I had an absolutely lovely day.

As a side note, we were doing the trip with about 24 other people all about our age.  Majority where girls travelling on their own.  Me and Ame made a real effort to be social and friendly and had some good conversations but no-one really seemed confident enough to socialise.  It seemed a fairly sombre traveling experience to me.  That's why I feel I'm very lucky to be doing this with Ame because (among other things) I like to share these experiences with someone... (ahhhhh)

It's all Greek to me

Our second day in Melbourne was designed to be a quite easy so we trammed it in again after another stomach busting (free!) breakfast and went on one of our free printed walking tours to explorer Collin St (Mayfair equivalent), China Town and Greek Quarters.  I was surprised to hear that Melbourne has the third most populated Greek population after Athens and Thessaloniki!  So naturally we indulged some souvlaki which was bloody huge and tasty.

Then we once again visited the arcades and really took them in this time.  They are a little like the lanes in Brighton. Artsy, alternative and pretty koooooool.  Ame needed a power nap again so we went back to hotel for a little rest.  That eve it was down to St Kilda to see the sea and a little to see what all the fuss is about.  A lot of the hostels are down there so I wanted to go and see where the cool kids hang out.  So we got the tram down there and I was very impressed

with how beautiful the promenades were.  It seems to be a mix.  Get 'em in cheap places next to very posh nosh joints and bars.  We had a nice leisurely beer in one of the promenade bars (well it would have to be leisurely at $8 a half pint of beer...) surrounded by the good looking people of the world.  Don't you hate them?!! 

I really wanted to go check out the Esplanade Hotel as it is a old hotel where a lot of gigs happen.  Predictably it was choka with crazy kids (drinking water and sharing chips because they obviously are broke - I know the exchange rate is bad but Oz is still surprisingly expensive for beers).  We enjoyed the sunset and some really nice won ton soup.  Despite feeling we could stay for some bands, we felt like we were going to pass out.  Jet lag is still there a little, so it was home to bed, and get ready for the Phillip Island trip tomorrow.  Private penguin viewings, here we come!!!

Say no to Puffing Billy

I thought it was time I made an entry as Rob's titles are making me cringe (says I). I've been feeling a bit lazy as I haven't adjusted to the time change as quickly and so keep waking up at 5am and lying awake remembering all the things we haven't remembered to bring. (We were very pleased with ourselves for having light luggage but now I know why! Not that any of the things matter really, I only want them because I know I can't have them.)

But despite being slightly
under slept I am really enjoying Melbourne. Our hotel is an old Victorian mansion and I love the simple style of the rooms, am happy to share the bathrooms and am eating a hearty (free) peanut buttery breakfast. We're based in Richmond which is a little way out but nice and leafy.

Yesterday we walked into town and all around most of the city. We went to the
tourist centre for the obligatory maps and pamphlets, mingled with the suits in the CBD (central business district) and pretended to be cool over lunch in a boho cubby hole cafe in Centre Place amongst the street art.

Melbourne is a very good looking city. When you're walking into town it feels like you imagine Aus to be but in the city it feels like Manchester, maybe Toronto or San Francisco. Its easy to find your wayabout, there's lots to look at, there's a real buzz and people are friendly.

After three hours of walking that morning we decided to save the rest of the city for another day and went back to the tourist office to investigate trips. We booked into a trip to Phillip Island to see the little (Fairy) penguins on Saturday.

We decided to splash out and upgrade to a sand based viewing with a ranger rather than sitting in the theatre seating with everyone else (yes we do think we're special). In exchange for this extravagance that's the only trip we're going to do in Melbourne. I was hankering after a ride on "Puffing Billy" the steam train which you ride through the Dandenong mountains, however the lady in the booking centre noted that the trip also includes a visit to a farm for goat petting and I got the impression she thought we should prefer more grown up activities (how wrong she was). Nevertheless the expense of indulging the inner child got in the way and so I bravely resisted Puffin Billy (smug in the knowledge that we get to feed kangaroos on our penguin trip on sat).

After a short power nap we headed out again last night to a local bar/pub on Chapel Street called the Lucky Coq; a really relaxed bar with cheap $4 (quality) pizzas and fun local ales and good music. I'm really glad we did our research and didn't go into the centre for the eve as it felt we experienced real Melbourne rather than the usual city tourist package and then jumped on the tram back "home".

So today we're heading back into town after another large breakfast to take in some art and bit a bit cultural. It is nice and sunny today.

Melbourne Baby!

Good day there!  Throw another shrimp on that BBQ wouldcha old chap?  I'm a limmy Englishman in Oz.

After getting up at 04:30am GMT, 3 hour ride to Heathrow, 3 hours in Heathrow, 11 hours from London to Hong Kong, 1 hour in Hong Kong, 8 hours Hong Kong to Melbourne and a 30 minute taxi ride, I sit writing this in the Richmond Hotel in Melbourne!!!! 

The flights were good.  I think Qantas is really good.  We had good healthy food and between meals a snack bag!  Then on demand films (well on the first flight, the second flight they seemed to get into a tis but we were asleep so it wasn't too bad).   We had two seats right next to each other and had our own little den.  I slept a little and don't feel to bad right now.

Me and Ame are sitting in bed in our gorgeous (economy but lovely) hotel with a Victoria Beer and some crisps.

We're excited and ready to go...!

   
This is me in Hong Kong airport...

This is Amy with Hong Kong backgroundyness

Farewell Big Smoke, Hello Limbo

Saturday went suprisingly well considering the task we had at hand.  We were up at 7am to finish off where we left off on the Friday night.    Dad arrived 9:30am and it was all action stations...  More packing and then extensive cleaning.  A few back breaking box lifts and hey presto the flat is de-Amy-and-Rob-afied and ready for tenants for the Sunday.  You can see it looks a bit sparse but it's bloody clean!!  Probably cleaner than when we were living in it.  Quick easy drive down to Marks Tay just outside Colchester so we could fill up my mum and dad's caravan with 50% of our stuff.  It's like Fort Knox where they store it so it's brilliant.  The other 50% is piled up in a room in mum and dad's house.  All round it's very kind of them to take in our stuff and not use their caravan for 6 months!

So it was back to Colchester, lugging more stuff up stairs.  Then seeing Grandma,  then the little vampires came round (my nephew Tom and neice Livvy).  They were trick or treating.  I totally forgot it was halloween!  THEN, it was off to Sutton, Suffolk for a swanky come dine with me experience in Holly and Dan's new kitchen and dining room.  It was a 3 course meal there and more "BYE!  See you in 6 months" farewells.  Back in bed by 11:30pm in Colchester.  We certainly do pack a lot into a day.