* Saturday, Sunday and Monday
Having Pek, Suun and Gan out at our leaving do on Friday night turned out to be really fun and meant that hopes of heading home in time for a good sleep went out the window. But we did leave Ankor What? Bar before 1am and get about 4 hours sleep in before we had to go down for our last Victory breakfast. Poor old Moy met us down there at 6am to get us brek and it was nice having her wave us off.
We knew we had a long journey ahead, were really sad to be leaving and had had very little sleep so it wasn't the funnest of mornings but we were good and just got on with it and managed to sleep quite a lot on the bus despite being sat above the wheel. We were heading to Kampot in the South but the bus went via Phnom Penh where we had to change. The only good thing about this was that we arranged to briefly see Claire during the stop over and although this only meant a quick hello in the bus station for about 30mins it was great to see her. She was moving into her new flat this weekend and so was out buying bits and pieces to make it homely.
But before we knew it we were back on the bus and heading off again. It was interesting getting to see more of the country and I was glad not to be leaving quite yet for Vietnam. One thing I really noticed on the journey was how consistent the Cambodian landscape is all over the country And not just the landscape but everything really; the style of houses, the clothes people wear, the things people are selling and the way people were living. Considering the distance we had traveled we could ave been in the outskirts of Siem Reap or up near Kratie. The only difference really was glimpses of the hills in Bokor national park.
It was just as well these thoughts were entertaining me because the morning's journey had taken six hours and the in the afternoon took another five. By the time we arrived in Kampot it was dark which was a little stressful as we hadn't been able to book anywhere to stay in advance (which we hate). Although as it happens it was a case in proof of why there can be no need to book as we got off the bus and straight into a tuk tuk who took us to the Kampot guest house where they had a lovely room free for $10. So all was well but I do think we were pretty lucky. Unsurprisingly we were exhausted so had dinner at a danish guest house on the same road and I had really yummy spaghetti bolognaise (with cheese on which is a real novelty). Then it was off to bed with us.
We slept in a bit on Sunday morning which was a treat and then naughtily went back to have brek at the guest house down the road (where I'd spotted they had peanut butter). We decided to take it easy and not try to do too much so arranged for a tuk tuk to go and visit Phnom Chhnork which is a temple built into ancient caves.
The view on the walk up was gorgeous, although I'd love to see how it looks in the wet season.
And the cavern was huge and full of animal shaped rocks. To visit the caves you have to pay $1 entry and then loads of kids rock up and offer to guide you. We agreed with one that he would guide us but then all his friends came too. And actually chatting with the kids was the best bit and more interesting than the caves really (no offense Cambodia). Their English was really good and they told us about their village and their school and how in the afternoons it is their job to follow the cows around after they've had their sleep, to find them places to eat and then wash them down to cool them off. Here is Rob with his collection of guides...
On the way back down they pointed out this lizard that we'd never have spotted.
Once we got back we headed into town for an explore as until now we'd stuck only to the street with our guest house. Kampot is not a large town and most of the activity centred around the river.
So we found ourselves to the riverside, got ourselves a snack and settled down to await sunset.
And it was another beautiful one. It's amazing how Cambodian towns all seem to have been arranged around a sunset view.
We wandered around a little more after that and caught glimpses of how the town used to be before it was flattened by the Khmer Rouge and lost it's status. We liked Kampot and got a good feeling from it. Soon after dinner we went back to the guest house for another early night, narrowly escaping being eaten by some dogs as we walked home.
Having Pek, Suun and Gan out at our leaving do on Friday night turned out to be really fun and meant that hopes of heading home in time for a good sleep went out the window. But we did leave Ankor What? Bar before 1am and get about 4 hours sleep in before we had to go down for our last Victory breakfast. Poor old Moy met us down there at 6am to get us brek and it was nice having her wave us off.
We knew we had a long journey ahead, were really sad to be leaving and had had very little sleep so it wasn't the funnest of mornings but we were good and just got on with it and managed to sleep quite a lot on the bus despite being sat above the wheel. We were heading to Kampot in the South but the bus went via Phnom Penh where we had to change. The only good thing about this was that we arranged to briefly see Claire during the stop over and although this only meant a quick hello in the bus station for about 30mins it was great to see her. She was moving into her new flat this weekend and so was out buying bits and pieces to make it homely.
But before we knew it we were back on the bus and heading off again. It was interesting getting to see more of the country and I was glad not to be leaving quite yet for Vietnam. One thing I really noticed on the journey was how consistent the Cambodian landscape is all over the country And not just the landscape but everything really; the style of houses, the clothes people wear, the things people are selling and the way people were living. Considering the distance we had traveled we could ave been in the outskirts of Siem Reap or up near Kratie. The only difference really was glimpses of the hills in Bokor national park.
It was just as well these thoughts were entertaining me because the morning's journey had taken six hours and the in the afternoon took another five. By the time we arrived in Kampot it was dark which was a little stressful as we hadn't been able to book anywhere to stay in advance (which we hate). Although as it happens it was a case in proof of why there can be no need to book as we got off the bus and straight into a tuk tuk who took us to the Kampot guest house where they had a lovely room free for $10. So all was well but I do think we were pretty lucky. Unsurprisingly we were exhausted so had dinner at a danish guest house on the same road and I had really yummy spaghetti bolognaise (with cheese on which is a real novelty). Then it was off to bed with us.
We slept in a bit on Sunday morning which was a treat and then naughtily went back to have brek at the guest house down the road (where I'd spotted they had peanut butter). We decided to take it easy and not try to do too much so arranged for a tuk tuk to go and visit Phnom Chhnork which is a temple built into ancient caves.
The view on the walk up was gorgeous, although I'd love to see how it looks in the wet season.
And the cavern was huge and full of animal shaped rocks. To visit the caves you have to pay $1 entry and then loads of kids rock up and offer to guide you. We agreed with one that he would guide us but then all his friends came too. And actually chatting with the kids was the best bit and more interesting than the caves really (no offense Cambodia). Their English was really good and they told us about their village and their school and how in the afternoons it is their job to follow the cows around after they've had their sleep, to find them places to eat and then wash them down to cool them off. Here is Rob with his collection of guides...
On the way back down they pointed out this lizard that we'd never have spotted.
Once we got back we headed into town for an explore as until now we'd stuck only to the street with our guest house. Kampot is not a large town and most of the activity centred around the river.
So we found ourselves to the riverside, got ourselves a snack and settled down to await sunset.
And it was another beautiful one. It's amazing how Cambodian towns all seem to have been arranged around a sunset view.
We wandered around a little more after that and caught glimpses of how the town used to be before it was flattened by the Khmer Rouge and lost it's status. We liked Kampot and got a good feeling from it. Soon after dinner we went back to the guest house for another early night, narrowly escaping being eaten by some dogs as we walked home.
Due to the early bedtime I was awake early this morning and felt ready to head to Kep, Kampot's small seaside neighbour that was also once where the French elite spent their time. In Kep there are still fewer remaining remnants of those days however it is a beautiful place and so its easy to imagine it. We are staying at Vanna Bungalows in the hills and have a little deck from which you can see the sea (all for $10).
We got a tuk tuk down here first thing, got some travel arrangements sorted while we were waiting to check in and then heading off to explore and have lunch. I was a bit sad to find that its not the kind of beach were people swim but I went and paddled nonetheless.
Then we went sampled famous Kep crab.
After an absolutely delicious lunch we spotted that there were some people in the water and so decided to sod it and join them!! We just sat about in the warm water for a little while bu it was just what the doctor ordered - I hate looking a lovely seas and not sampling them. Then while still very drippy we got a lift to the crab market to buy some Kampot pepper and then went back up the hill to make the most of our lovely balcony and both of us had a little snooze; it would have been rude not to!
Awake and dressed Rob and I headed down to the restaurant for our final night in Cambodia and lined ourselves up for another beautiful sunset, this time over the sea. I'm so glad that we got to see another little section of Cambodia and certainly the most peaceful we'd encountered yet. Kampot and Kep are not the party capitals of Cambodia but you can see why they drew in the crowds in their day and might hope to do again one day. I think we're lucky to have come and experienced it before that happens. So our last day here draws to a close and we are so thankful that we chose to spend this time here in this beautiful, happy and welcoming country.
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