Goodnight Cambodia

* Saturday, Sunday and Monday

Having Pek, Suun and Gan out at our leaving do on Friday night turned out to be really fun and meant that hopes of heading home in time for a good sleep went out the window.  But we did leave Ankor What? Bar before 1am and get about 4 hours sleep in before we had to go down for our last Victory breakfast.   Poor old Moy met us down there at 6am to get us brek and it was nice having her wave us off.

We knew we had a long journey ahead, were really sad to be leaving and had had very little sleep so it wasn't the funnest of mornings but we were good and just got on with it and managed to sleep quite a lot on the bus despite being sat above the wheel.   We were heading to Kampot in the South but the bus went via Phnom Penh where we had to change.  The only good thing about this was that we arranged to briefly see Claire during the stop over and although this only meant a quick hello in the bus station for about 30mins it was great to see her.  She was moving into her new flat this weekend and so was out buying bits and pieces to make it homely.

But before we knew it we were back on the bus and heading off again.  It was interesting getting to see more of the country and I was glad not to be leaving quite yet for Vietnam.  One thing I really noticed on the journey was how consistent the Cambodian landscape is all over the country  And not just the landscape but everything really; the style of houses, the clothes people wear, the things people are selling and the way people were living.  Considering the distance we had traveled we could ave been in the outskirts of Siem Reap or up near Kratie.  The only difference really was glimpses of the hills in Bokor national park.

It was just as well these thoughts were entertaining me because the morning's journey had taken six hours and the in the afternoon took another five.  By the time we arrived in Kampot it was dark which was a little stressful as we hadn't been able to book anywhere to stay in advance (which we hate).  Although as it happens it was a case in proof of why there can be no need to book as we got off the bus and straight into a tuk tuk who took us to the Kampot guest house where they had a lovely room free for $10.  So all was well but I do think we were pretty lucky.  Unsurprisingly we were exhausted so had dinner at a danish guest house on the same road and I had really yummy spaghetti bolognaise (with cheese on which is a real novelty).  Then it was off to bed with us.

We slept in a bit on Sunday morning which was a treat and then naughtily went back to have brek at the guest house down the road (where I'd spotted they had peanut butter).  We decided to take it easy and not try to do too much so arranged for a tuk tuk to go and visit Phnom Chhnork which is a temple built into ancient caves. 

The view on the walk up was gorgeous, although I'd love to see how it looks in the wet season.

And the cavern was huge and full of animal shaped rocks.  To visit the caves you have to pay $1 entry and then loads of kids rock up and offer to guide you.  We agreed with one that he would guide us but then all his friends came too.  And actually chatting with the kids was the best bit and more interesting than the caves really (no offense Cambodia).  Their English was really good and they told us about their village and their school and how in the afternoons it is their job to follow the cows around after they've had their sleep, to find them places to eat and then wash them down to cool them off.  Here is Rob with his collection of guides...

On the way back down they pointed out this lizard that we'd never have spotted.

Once we got back we headed into town for an explore as until now we'd stuck only to the street with our guest house.  Kampot is not a large town and most of the activity centred around the river. 

So we found ourselves to the riverside, got ourselves a snack and settled down to await sunset.

And it was another beautiful one.  It's amazing how Cambodian towns all seem to have been arranged around a sunset view.

We wandered around a little more after that and caught glimpses of how the town used to be before it was flattened by the Khmer Rouge and lost it's status.  We liked Kampot and got a good feeling from it.  Soon after dinner we went back to the guest house for another early night, narrowly escaping being eaten by some dogs as we walked home.

Due to the early bedtime I was awake early this morning and felt ready to head to Kep, Kampot's small seaside neighbour that was also once where the French elite spent their time.  In Kep there are still fewer remaining remnants of those days however it is a beautiful place and so its easy to imagine it.  We are staying at Vanna Bungalows in the hills and have a little deck from which you can see the sea (all for $10).

We got a tuk tuk down here first thing, got some travel arrangements sorted while we were waiting to check in and then heading off to explore and have lunch.   I was a bit sad to find that its not the kind of beach were people swim but I went and paddled nonetheless.

Then we went sampled famous Kep crab.

After an absolutely delicious lunch we spotted that there were some people in the water and so decided to sod it and join them!! We just sat about in the warm water for a little while bu it was just what the doctor ordered - I hate looking a lovely seas and not sampling them.  Then while still very drippy we got a lift to the crab market to buy some Kampot pepper and then went back up the hill to make the most of our lovely balcony and both of us had a little snooze; it would have been rude not to!

Awake and dressed Rob and I headed down to the restaurant for our final night in Cambodia and lined ourselves up for another beautiful sunset, this time over the sea.  I'm so glad that we got to see another little section of Cambodia and certainly the most peaceful we'd encountered yet.  Kampot and Kep are not the party capitals of Cambodia but you can see why they drew in the crowds in their day and might hope to do again one day.  I think we're lucky to have come and experienced it before that happens.  So our last day here draws to a close and we are so thankful that we chose to spend this time here in this beautiful, happy and welcoming country.

Village Bike

* Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday

It was the beginning of our last week!  How did it come so quick?!  It began with, you guessed it, more walls.  We finished the big wall and hung it early Tuesday morning.

This meant all 3 main walls were on.  And Jack and Bill did a great job with the windows.  This left us the rest of Tuesday and the whole of Wednesday to do 1 triangle static wall and 3 large moving wall/windows.  No probs for the experts!  We finished the triangle and one of the windows that day.  We knew we would be fine for Thursday's moving in ceremony.

We returned from work nice and prompt that afternoon.  This week we had some real jobs to get done.  First job:  get the family some moving in presents.  We came up with a great idea; a bike!  They don't even have a push bike and this makes it hard to get about in the village.  Also the teenager daughter of the house gets visits from her friends on bikes but it seems they always have to come to her.  Also, the young boy and mother could use the bike to nip about on if they choose.  All round, it was a great, practical present that would really change their lifestyle.  So we hassled David, Sally's (the project coordinator) husband, into helping us buy the bike and a few more gifts at the local Khmer market.  After a little bit of haggling we got a good price for the bike.

We also picked up a thin fold up mattress that the family will sleep on in the bedroom.  We particularly liked this gift because the mother of the house is quite old and I feel sometimes the older people get forgotten about when it comes to gift buying.  Everyone always spoils the kids.  So, with those two gifts and a couple of volleyballs we headed back to Victory Guesthouse.

That evening we all went out and ate at the $1 stalls.  Shamefully, this is first time me and Amy have done this in the whole time we have been here.  Our excuse is there's always too much going on!  It was good (but bloody hot) in the street and the food was good too.

On Wednesday, we were already beginning to feel the leaving blues.  We took some nice pictures of the market on route.  This is one of our lovely fish ladies who we buy off.  Those fish are alive in that tub.  We purchase one or two (about $1 each - and that's foreigner prices!) and then she batters it to death on her slab with a meat cleaver and whilst the fish is reeling from that, she de-scales it.  You don't get fresher than that!  It's strange what you get used to!

This is our other lovely lady at the veg stall where we stand and point at vegetables and Suun decrees whether they are appropriate for the day's lunch!  He thinks he is quite the chef!  Always a good laugh.

Once on site, we managed to finished two of the walls we needed to do.  Me and Ame have worked just the two of us most of this week.  It's been really nice as a lot of the time we have been there together but working separately. 

When we came to hang the last 2 windows a sudden crisis appeared!  NO MORE WIRE!  We weren't having that given that the ceremony was the next day so we threw Suun and Pek some cash and told them to get some more wire (and some celebration beers, of course).  They returned and by god those walls were hung.  So it was all finished.  Woooohoooo!  (Sound of beers being opened).

In the afternoon, we had arranged with Sally to have a look around the orphanages and schools.  When we got back from work we headed off with Sally (and some random 78 year old dotty old English lady who Sally had befriended that morning) to one of the slums built on a hotel's land.  This place is a particular problem because the slum could get leveled at any point so as a charity you can't invest money in building there, which is really sad.  The houses were really basic and some pretty shitty. 

But the people were still gorgeous and lovely to us.  They all know Sally and she speaks quite good Khmer.  She has made a real effort to do something for the people there and has put in two wells.

We then drove to Osbourne House, one of the orphanages.  It was quite small and had a boys and girls dorm area as well as a kitchen and two class rooms.  It was quite charming.  Then we drove about 2km outside Siem Reap to one of the schools were Hannah is currently teaching.  We interrupted one of her classes.

It was great to see what the other teaching volunteers have got up to whilst we've been building.  To add some stark contrast to the day, we visited a 5* hotels pool for about an hour!  Sally has negotiated with the eco-hotel that volunteers can use the pool for free and have 30% of drinks.  The teachers up an Treak School go virtually every lunch time.  It's funny because you really enjoy it but feel a little bit of a hypocrite at the same time.  Oh well, we do our best.  It was really fun and the pool even had a bar in it. 

It's been great spending a little bit of time with David and Sally this week as they are always about but often so busy.

That evening, we went to Central Cafe, which is a nice, slightly pricier restaurant in town (well, $6 for a fantastic blue cheese burger, so let's get some perspective).  A few beers at the $0.50 joints and then home for 22:00 for our last day, and of course, the ceremony.

On Thursday, we awoke for the big day.  Pek tied the bike to the tuk-tuk and we crammed the mattress in also.  We were off for our very last trip in to the village. 

It's wedding season at the moment and it's become a bit of an ongoing joke with me and Ame about trying to get a good photo of the wedding as we zoom past in the tuk-tuk.  Finally on the last day I get a gooden!  The bride and the other woman dress up so smart and every wedding has this bright marquee above it.  They even dress the seats up all pretty!  There is always such a loud sound of Khmer music being pumped out!  It looks incredible.

I was a bit worried at some points as we trundled along nearly knocking a few people off their bikes!  But we made it to the water stand and then the house no probs.

On arrival we were greeted by the usual loud music and lots of people.  One of the neighbours who we have become friendly with saw the bike and giggled and screamed for the family to come.  Next thing you know we have a slightly cringey handover but the teenager daughter was so happy with the bike (I know this because she has barely spoke a word to us and she beamed and said "Aw khun tran" which means Thank you very much!).

Suko said they absolutely loved the mattress as well so it was all worth it.  Then we started distributing some little gifts for the kids of the area that have always been around.  It was mostly stickers, colouring books, colouring pencils and we gave a volleyball to the boy of Project 8 and the boy of Project 7.  So as the festivities we a little way away, we thought best go and have a game of volleyball then!  Ghan, Pek and Suun love it too.  It's a good game.

Amy and Hannah (who decided to come for the day) sat with the younger kids and helped them colour...

Soon the 3 times around the house parade started to scare off the spirits.  We all joined in.  The wise old man was there again throwing water over the house, blessing it.  Now we had to enter the house.  For the daughters and the mother this would be the first time they were allowed in the house.  I partnered with the teenage daughter. 

Ame partnered with one of the neighbours!

Once up the top, the real main ceremony begun:  a bit of shouting at the spirits, selling the house to a couple, and this time me and Ame took the money as the other couple.  We all this time got a yellow band put round our wrist which we must wear until it falls off or it will be bad luck for the house.  Now if all that wasn't cool enough, 3 monks turned up to bless the house.  They came into the bedroom and sat on the mattress we bought.

They then proceed to sing and chant for the next 30 minutes with the lady of the house.  We thought we'd better disappear and went for some chats downstairs.  It was amazing standing in the jungle with 3 monks chanting in the house we'd spent the past 4 1/2 weeks building!  And when they were done they sped off on a moto.  Monks are cool.

We were then called for lunch.  As the special guests we ate first.  We had pork and pumpkin that we brought, fish, frog that Jack brought and pork noodles.  Earlier we had seen the frog being killed.  It was quite a sight but I though a little gruesome for the blog considering the occasion!

After a few shots of rice wine, our time had come to an end.  It was time to go and let them all get on with their lives.  We organised one last photo of all of us who built the house, the family and of course some kids.  Boooohooooo! 

We made Suko make sure they knew we would not be back tomorrow and people did look generally quite sad.  One of the kids said "You back tomorrow?" and we said no and they kept winging saying "Tomorrow Tomorrow".  That was cute.  In the few hours we had left in the village we went to Project 9, played with some of the kids there, went for a lovely little walk with Hannah, Bill and Jack to Gea's house (the apprentice and son of project 4).  It was such a wonderful afternoon.  And, as they say, an end of an era.

In the afternoon, me and Ame rushed around the market getting some pressies for people.  In the evening, we went out to a wicked restaurant that does free pop corn, free fruit and free bottled water!  The food their was ace.  Then we did the Pub quiz in Funky Munky (all profits to the orphanages).  As if to bring us crashing back into the western world after our wonderful Khmer morning, we had what is called a "Globe"of beer.  It's basically your own portable beer tap with a ice container in the middle.  We loved that novelty. 

We went home to bed around midnight.  It had been one hell of a day and an emotional one too. 

On Friday, we wanted to have everything sorted so that we could really enjoy our last afternoon.  We woke up at 08:00 to say goodbye to Sally and David who unexpectedly had to go down to Phnom Penh that day.  Sad really.  Then I got to writing this bad boy post whilst Ame organised our lives into bags.  Then it was off into town for some last jobs and a full body massage!  We only did 1/2 a hour but it was quite relaxing.  We had it in the same room which was a little wierd as a 5 foot Khmer girl jumped up and down on me for a full 1/2 hour!  All a bit strange really but good fun.

Then we chilled in the "posh" pool for the last part of the afternoon with the other chaps who are members. 

Tonight we've organised one last hurrah in good old Siem Reap.  We're having a drink at Nest, a posh bar of the way into town, 15 of us are having dinner at the Khmer Family restaurant in town and then we're off to drink more "Globes" with Pek, Suun and Ghan!  Which is totally unexpected but awesome.  We leave tomorrow atround 06:00 - 06:30 and travel to Kampot via Phnom Penh. 

So what's left to say.  6 weeks; 42 days; an 1/8 of our year in Siem Reap.  Building houses.  Socialising.  Exploring.  Learning.  The time has flown by.  It's exceeded every expectation we had.  We're made some really good friends.  We've fell in love with Cambodia and we have made a few people's lives a little bit better.  We're certainly better for it.  In conclusion, this is one of the best things I've every done in my life and I'm sure Amy concurs.  It's a little bit heartbreaking moving on but nothing lasts forever.  It's best to leave on the up as they say.  So Bon Voyage Siem Reap and Bos village.  And a big thanks to Moy and the Victory Guesthouse.  It's been wonderful.  One day we'll all meet again...

Mekong magic

* Saturday, Sunday and Monday

We have just returned from a weekend trip to Kratie, which is East of Siem Reap.  Eight of us left on Saturday morning in search of Mekong sunsets and Irrawaddy dolphins; myself, Rob, Hannah, Bill and Jack (who Rob and I build with) and Grant, Chris and Steve (who are working on project 9).

In the week leading up to the trip we deliberated about how to get there and at the last minute we canceled our eight bus tickets and instead booked ourselves a private mini bus - an excellent decision all round for a number of reasons.  It wasn't much more expensive, we had much more room, we left a bit later at 9am, went via a shop for snacks, stopped when we wanted and still arrived by about 4pm.  It also meant we got some random experiences which we would have otherwise missed out on.  Our driver clearly had never been to Kratie as he regularly asked random people for directions, many of whom seemed to like to take the piss by each pointing in different directions.  He also found us a very local spot to stop for lunch in Kampong Cham where we were dished up a variety of soupy dishes, mainly full of animal insides. We each paid $1 for this treat and then had to leave swiftly after Steve left his footprint in some wet concrete and I managed to break the loo and water came spurting out.  Then when we were nearly there he decided to take us on a short cut via 25km of untarmacked road and at one point we thought we were going to have to get out and push as we started to roll back down a slope. 

But the main thing was that we arrived in time for sunset.  We checked into all six rooms of the guest house and prepared ourselves to take over the place for the weekend.  We had a few beers up on the balcony on arrival and then headed over the road to have a beer at a little "cafe" on the riverside.

And watched a spectacular sunset...

We had dinner in another guest house as we'd wanted to explore the town and see what was on offer beyond where we were staying.  However we soon realised we were'nt in Siem Reap anymore Toto and that Kratie was a very different kettle of fish; no pub street, in fact no restaurants really.  So after eating on the one place we found we headed back to our nice balcony and played a lot of cards before having a relatively sensible bedtime, to make up for last week's series of late nights and so to be rested for the next day.

The next morning we had a fun day planned.  The guy from the guesthouse, Andrew: a slightly eccentric, old kiwi, had arranged a whole day trip for us for a really reasonable price which was excellent.  So all we had to do was get in the tuk tuks and see where the day took us.  Not only did he arrange the day for us but he even closed his restaurant so that his cooks and tuk tuk drivers/manager and bar staff could have a day out - and he also came along for the ride.  Between us we had three tuk tuks full of people and cool boxes, and one of them was even a roofless/convertible tuk tuk.

The first stop of the tour was Phnom Sambok, a beautiful tree-covered hill temple with great views over both river and countryside.  There were lots of steps to climb but the views were worth it.

It was so peaceful too, well until we arrived.  Grant stupidly rang the bell at the top as one of the tuk tuk drivers suggested it would be fun and in response two monks came running out (Australians, you can't take them anywhere!).  We took that as our cue to leave and head to the next stop to see the Irrawaddy dolphins!!!  These are very rare fresh water dolphins; there are only 75 left.  This is due to the poisons finding there way into the Mekong that the dolphins can't handle.  Even excess soil running into the water is a problem, which is cause by extensive and sometimes illegal logging around the river.  So we had our fingers tightly crossed that we would see some as we headed out in our two little boats.

And we were in luck, we floated and rowed about for an hour and saw five or so at different points popping up for air.  They're not the kind of dolphins that do leaps and tricks and you're not allowed to get very close so we didn't get many photographic masterpieces.  But it was a stunning experience and so hard to believe that they live there in the river with their funny little stubby heads (which this dolphin has shyly hidden from the picture).

After this excitement we were pretty hungry and so were glad that at our third and final stop we would be having some lunch.  We were due to have our lunch, and spend the afternoon, at the Kampi Rapids upstream from the dolphins.  I'm not sure what I had expected but it certainly wasn't what we got. I suppose I'd imagined us sitting on a quiet river bank and having a quick swim but as we approached all we could see was little wooden huts in the water and lots of Khmer people in their clothes sitting amongst the rocks in the shallow river! It was better than anything I could have dreamed up, it was a bizarre and surprisingly local experience as we were pretty much the only non Khmer people there.  The huts are only temporarily built for the dry season and then dismantled when the wet season starts in May, because once it starts to rain the Mekong will rise about 16m heigher than it is now.

First of all we sat down to eat and had an amazing spread for lunch; two whole cooked fish, green mango salad, curried rice salad, chicken with chilli dip, bamboo baked rice and more.

Then we plopped ourselves into the river and shamelessly sat there for about three hours drinking beer, laughing and trying not to float away.

The joking continued as we sped back to the guesthouse, stopping only to stare at the sunset over the river for a bit and spy on some monks having a private dip.
Then after quick showers we were back in our seats on the balcony from which we did not stray for the rest of the night.  After an interesting dinner (you might say that the orders got a little confused) we played the Rizla game, (famous person is written on the rizla, stuck to your head and you have to ask Yes/No questions until you get it right) for a number of hours, which I proved to be rubbish at, and then tried to play another game of two truths and a lie.  But the conversation got grubbier and vaguer, as the days sun and beer took its toll, and we eventually we took ourselves off to bed for another good sleep.

We were back on the balcony 8 hours later for the final time to eat our final meal (again with most of us eating quite different things to which we had ordered).  Then after we had settled the bill we got back on the road to retreat to Siem Reap.  The journey home flew by despite four odd stops for various reasons.  The last stop was hard to understand as we just suddenly stopped at an old bridge, perhaps one that the driver fancied visiting.  But no-one minded; the guys got a cigarette break and I took photos of a nice cow that lived nearby.

We got back by 4.30pm and said goodbye to our driver and gave him a generous tip as it had looked after us so well (well he got us there and back in on piece anyway).  Then we all slipped back into Siem Reap normality and prepared for our final four days of work.  What a brilliant weekend, I'm so glad we went.

But I can't believe we now only have one week left, we're going to be so sad to leave.  We have felt so welcomed and happy here; we've made so many great friends and loved the time we have spent out in the village with the family, building them a house.  It has totally exceeded my expectations and I think that is due to the project being so well organised, Cambodia being such a unique and positive place and how lucky we've been with the people we've shared it all with.  Coming back here after just a few days away it felt like home and so it's going to be hard on Saturday when we leave knowing we'll probably never be back; or at least not back for many, many years.

But we haven't left yet and so I'm going to make the most of our final few days.  On Thursday the family will be moving into their home and I can't wait! And in the meantime we have walls and windows to finish and house warming pressies to buy - I'm looking forward to the next few days.