The port has a really interesting and wild history. In the early 1800's, it was known as Kororareka and was described as "the hell hole of the pacific". It was a lawless port full of vice and booze, fights and murders... It sounds like something out of Pirates of the Caribbean! I liked the sound of this so I certainly wanted to learn more.
We headed to the museum and learned a hell of a lot. It was an interesting place because it was one of the first settlements where Maori and the settlers learned to live and work together (all be it in absolute chaos). The port was full of deserters, convicts and rogues alongside the powerful community of the Maori. They would trade between each other and formed mixed boat crews. We also introduced new concepts to the Maori such as prostitution (awhhh how nice) and booze.
So basically the British couldn't take this stain on their Empire and cleaned it up around 1840 via vigilante groups and harsh punishments. This coincides with the most significant Treaty that was signed in NZ's history: The Treaty of Waitangi. Signed just on the shore along from Piahia at Waitangi the Maori signed over the sovereignty of their land to the Queen Victoria. They believed that they would still own the fisheries, forests and lands of the NZ which the treaty stated. However read this extract called Article Two:
"Her Majesty the Queen of England confirms and guarantees to the Chiefs and Tribes of New Zealand and to the respective families and individuals thereof the full exclusive and undisturbed possession of their Lands and Estates Forests Fisheries and other properties which they may collectively or individually possess so long as it is their wish and desire to retain the same in their possession; but the Chiefs of the United Tribes and the individual Chiefs yield to Her Majesty the exclusive right of Preemption over such lands as the proprietors thereof may be disposed to alienate at such prices as may be agreed upon between the respective Proprietors and persons appointed by Her Majesty to treat with them in that behalf."
http://www.nzhistory.net.nz/politics/treaty/read-the-treaty/english-text
I power phrase that to mean "yeah yeah you think you own the land but we'll take it for any price at any time. Mugs". It reminds me of our lease for our flat. It's like a lease for a country. Poor Maori didn't know what they were signing. Needless to say, they figure it out. The British kept on "buying" more and more land off the locals.
Kororareka was renamed Russell and was the capital of NZ. The status of capital was moved shortly after the Treaty to Auckland until it moved again to Wellington. The Maori land rights were ignored, they felt mistreated and they kicked off. Hence a lot of wars and a lot of bloodshed until the Maori caved in. Russell was raised to the ground a couple of times and it is now rebuilt as a quaint little tourist town. Interesting stuff I think.
So............... after that learning experience we had lunch and headed back. We got some nice snaps of the families on the ferry on the way back. It's been lovely spending time with them all. After getting off the ferry they hired some sailing dingys in the bay while Ame and I headed back to the motel and spent an hour or so in the pool and doing the blog instead and Ame fell asleep on the edge of the pool in the last remaining dregs of sun.
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This evening we had fish and chips for dinner which was very nice. We hung around the poolside and enjoyed a few more beers, chats and games of cards. Tomorrow we start the drive back. It's been an absolutely fantastic time. I love NZ.
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